They say inspiration can strike at any time. But it is also said that it is totally personal and subjective. What for someone may inspire magic and joy, for another may denote mystery and sadness. However, it does not matter what the idea refers to, if it is presented with the intention of going further, of breaking the rules and limits previously established. Karl Lagerfeld, one of the greatest exponents of fashion, knows how to play with the rules, and inspired by the origin of culture, presents the latest Chanel Cruise collection at the Galerie Courbe of the Grand Palais in the heart of Paris.
Karl Lagerfeld offers an idealized vision of Greece and proves once again that inspiration can play in different ways.
Greek antiquity, the cradle of culture, its beauty and modernity are at the heart of the designer’s inspiration: The criterion of beauty in ancient, and then classical, Greece is very relevant. Subtle and elegant drapes, fluid lines frame the silhouettes of tweed and jersey, silk and cotton, lace and crepe. Bangs play with precious embroidery, gladiators with column heels elevate the traditional Greek sandal, and Olympic laurels become diadems while golden necklaces and bracelets adorn the neck and arms. Amphorae become small or large pleated leather backpacks. Miniaudieres and evening bags made of meticulously draped leather or tanned exotic skins. Chanel’s Gabrielle bag is mixed with leather with knitted owl or vintage packaging motifs, or appears in marbled leather.
To rewrite the codes of antiquity, Karl Lagerfeld offers an idealized vision of Greece and demonstrates once again that inspiration can play in different ways: Reality does not interest me, I use what I like. My Greece is an idea, he explains. Greek sleeves with draped shoulders structure lines and find balance in marked or belted waists. Pleats inspired by columns, while the motifs on the sweaters resemble those found on antique packaging or in fresco images of the period. The designer focuses on details such as buttons engraved with owls, the mythological symbol of wisdom; or in prints with laurel wreaths with hidden camellias or laurel branches in the shape of the elegant double C. These symbols accompanied by the wheat stalks so preferred by Gabrielle Chanel, also adorn the coins that make up a small evening wallet.
As a great admirer of antiquity, Karl Lagerfeld transcends its codes, demonstrating the timelessness, spirit and charm of Chanel.
With this collection, Karl Lagerfeld composes a true journey through time and space. Spectacular white and blue cascade over A-line tweed dresses and jackets, illuminating a suit with curves and amphora-shaped hips. Antiquity meets modern fashion mythology in draped jersey tops, long skirts, wide, fluid and pleated pants in black, white and beige or terracotta and gold. Fringed, unlined, pale or ocher tweed becomes double-breasted coats and zippered shepherdess dresses. The simplicity of linen dresses is elevated with multi-colored stone embroidery. The realm of mythology is always present: the Greek goddesses appear in dresses literally sculpted in perfect crepe, the marked waists are entirely embroidered in sequins that emulate marble. Nymphs also emerge in jersey or muslin dresses, worn under long tunics patterned with gold leaf crowns. Elsewhere there are dresses embroidered with spirals, a symbol of movement, life and energy that give balance to the Spartan-inspired tops and skirts.
As a great admirer of antiquity, Karl Lagerfeld transcends its codes, demonstrating the timelessness, spirit and charm of Chanel. Presented at the Grand Palais, this collection was received with resounding applause from Chanel ambassadors Keira Knightley, Anna Mouglalis, Caroline de Maigret, Ellie Bamber and Clotilde Hesme, the young American actress Yara Shahidi, the French actresses Isabelle Huppert and Marine Vacth , the Chinese actress Liu Shi Shi, as well as the directors Pedro Almodóvar and Deniz Gamze Ergüven.
